Watering
Seedlings are prone to desiccation, thus it is important not to let the seedbed to dry up after the initial watering session. A newly seeded lawn will require irrigation between two and four times each day, depending on the weather conditions. Watering should be done on a regular basis to ensure that the top 0.5 to 1.0 inch of soil remains moist, but not so much that the soil becomes saturated. Once the seedlings reach a height of two inches, gradually lower the frequency of irrigation and increase the depth of watering. When the lawn has been mowed two or three times, deep and infrequent irrigation is the most effective method of maintaining its health.
When watering, you are permitted to walk on the hydro seeded surface. Try to walk solely on dry surfaces, and avoid disturbing the mulch mat as much as possible.
By watering your young seedlings on a regular basis and preventing them from drying out, you can ensure the beginnings of a beautiful lawn.
Mowing
When you mow a new lawn, it will encourage the turf to fill in as rapidly as possible. Make certain that your mower is in good working order and that the blades are sharp. Mowing should begin as soon as the first few seedlings reach a height that allows them to be mowed. During the first mowing, you may only mow 10 percent of the plants; during the second mowing, you may only mow 20-30 percent of the plants; and so on. The majority of people wait too long to mow a freshly seeded lawn, so mow frequently and early in the season. Mow Kentucky bluegrass, perennial rye, fine fescue, and tall fescue at 1.5 inches in the beginning, and tall fescue at 2.0 inches later. It is recommended that you adjust your mower after the first three to four mowings to the permanent mowing height, which is 2.0 to 3.5 inches for Kentucky bluegrass, perennial rye, and fine fescue, and 2.5 to 4.0 inches for tall fescue, depending on the species.
Always remember that you should never remove more than 1/3 of the grass blade at a time when mowing. In the summer, this may include mowing twice weekly in the winter and every other week in the summer. In the right circumstances, returning grass clippings to the lawn can be really useful. If you opt not to use a catcher, make sure the lawn is completely dry before you begin and avoid creating trails of grass clumps that can wilt your lawn.
Fertilizing
Fertilize your new grass with a high-nitrogen fertilizer around one month after it has been established. When hydroseeding your lawn, we apply a high-phosphorus fertilizer, sometimes known as a “starting fertilizer.” The phosphorus will boost root growth, and it is critical to achieving good root growth in the early stages before introducing nitrogen to encourage vigorous top growth in the latter stages. If your new lawn is displaying signs of color change, such as lime green and yellowing, as well as poor turf development, it is likely that it is due for a fertilization treatment.
As a result of their insufficiently formed root systems, new seedlings are unable to properly take nutrients from the soil. As a result, it is critical to fertilize often the following seeding in order to encourage establishment. Apply 0.75 to 1.0 lb N/1000 ft2 four weeks after germination, and then again eight to ten weeks later to maintain plant growth. Assuming that the seeds are planted in the middle of August, the applications will be made in the middle of September and again in the middle of October.
For the first few years, new grass will require more fertilizer in order to achieve greater density. Certain grasses, such as Tall Fescue, may be able to thrive with lower annual fertilizer rates than other grasses, such as Kentucky bluegrass or perennial ryegrass, depending on the species. It is expected that rain and irrigation will encourage growth, resulting in the need for more yearly fertilizer than during a dry summer.
Weed Control is important.
Avoid using herbicides in newly seeded areas until the new grass has been mowed at least three times, according to the manufacturer. It is now possible to avoid weeds for up to six weeks using a new treatment from hydroseeding Massachusetts. Alternatively, this product can be used in place of the high nitrogen follow-up fertilizer that was previously indicated.
Weed pressure is low in the fall, thus weed treatment may not be necessary for some situations. Broadleaf weeds may become an issue in the fall, but these can be easily controlled by applying a broadleaf herbicide in October or November, after the third or fourth mowing, depending on the situation. It is best not to use wide leaf herbicides in newly sown areas until the seedlings have been mowed three times or until the area has been mowed twice.
Continuation of Care
It is crucial to have a regular lawn care programme in place in order to keep your lawn healthy.
We propose that you follow a lawn care regimen on an annual basis. A typical programme includes of 5 or more treatments that nourish the lawn while also controlling weeds, grubs and insects, as well as maintaining optimum pH levels in the soil.
Using a licenced lawn care service is highly recommended if you are not comfortable or confident in your ability to care for your new grass following the 30 day germination period. After the 30-day germination period, we are no longer liable for your lawn’s upkeep.